When the Germans were expelled from Kaliningrad, they left behind a wonderful architectural heritage.

Some residential districts of Kaliningrad, and almost all the villas in Svetlogorsk, survived the the war untouched. What they survived less well was being untouched by even a lick of paint for next half century.

Under Russian ownership, the plaster peeled, the ornaments fell off and the handsome tiled roofs gave way to tin. Of course, these high maintenance mansions were never designed for the poor Russians sent by Stalin to populate the new territory.

Konigsberg was one of the most beautiful cities in Prussia and quite deliberately so. The town council had always obsessed about aesthetics and landscaping. Even the barracks and military fortifications had to be beautiful, designed by famous architects such as August Stueller and decorated with bas-relief sculptures. A curiously extravagant protection against incoming cannonballs.

Now that Moscow money is moving into Svetlogorsk, there’s an attempt to recreate the past. But instead of restoration projects, many of the old houses are simply demolished and repro-Prussian mansions rise in their place. It’s partly about money, of course. The old Prussian villas were individually built by craftsmen and can’t be upgraded with standard factory melamine doors and 24-hour double-glazing from the Yellow Pages.

Then there’s the general lack of conservation awareness. Along with a lack of craftsmen who could begin the complex task of restoration. So, Svetlogorsk today is odd coexistence of real estate and fake estate. Right next to Svetlogorsk’s landmark sanatorium, for example, they’re building an art deco fantasy which, I’m told, is to become a cafe.

Svetlogorsk - Real Estate

Svetlogorsk - Fake Estate