With Spam, Russians got their very first taste of capitalism. Under lease-lend in WW2, shiploads (sic) of Spam was sent to Russia. It’s probably why Russians clung to communism for another 50 years. But if you can find someone to lease or lend you a tin, there are nostalgic ways with Spam.

To even countenance the idea of serving Spam, you have to ‘think wartime’. Back then in Provence nearly everything - tea, coffee, jam, soup - was being made from chestnuts. In Berlin, Christabel Bielenberg (great book) recalls everything being ersatz too. A chef would be complimented for not serving rat substitute.

So, now you can chop a tin of Spam into flack or strips without worrying about the appearance. This recipe is never going to look pretty.

Soften an onion in butter with garlic and mushrooms and then saute the spam. If you use enough garlic some people will eat plastic so this a critical step. Twist in a big sneeze of black pepper too.

At this point, another authentic touch is to pour in a can of wartime mushroom soup, but a can of light vegetable stock thickened with tomato puree will do. Let this simmer for about 15 minutes. Finally, stir in a cup of sour cream and warm through gently.

You can serve with rice or pasta but Spam Retro is best enjoyed on a tin-plate with bread and accompanied by a cheap sweet Soviet Wine or some Repro Wartime Russian Tea.