I Want To See The Bright Lights Tonight

There’s nothing to see and only if you read Russian can you pass the time scanning the many bird-flu leaflets.

…The new post-war name of Sovietsk cheese was not a marketing success (laugh) and contributed to the decline in population.



No Such Place As Kaliningrad

Before the war, East Prussia was home to over two million people. The last of the few thousand survivors were all expelled by 1948.

The first Russian settlers of the new Kaliningrad Oblast arrived to eerie, half-empty houses in an alien landscape. Among the tiled German villas with steep gables, the Baltic sand and […]


The European Prison

Only two short years ago, it was a delight to visit Kaliningrad. Now it’s as hard to break into the prison as it is to break out.

With their backs to the Baltic and fenced in by Schengen, nearly a million people live in what local resident Oleg describes as a ‘European Prison’. […]


Taking Back Prussia

Panzer motorhomes massing in Northern Poland

I noted earlier that wiping Prussia off the map in 1945 was always wobbly in International Law. Many recommendations of the Potsdam Conference – which itself had no license to give away a quarter of German territory – have never been ratified. The border around Kaliningrad is just […]